Kathmandu : French climber Alasdair McKenzie, alongside a team of Nepalese Sherpas, has made history by achieving the first ever summit of Cho Oyu on June, 2024, via the formidable Nepal side.

McKenzie and his Sherpa team stood atop the world’s sixth highest mountain at a height of 8188m above sea level at 8:35 PM (Nepal Time) via the S-SW Ridge (SST- Nepal Route), said Mingma Sherpa, chairman of SST, from the basecamp of Cho Oyu, who is handling the entire expedition movement.

“McKenzie, Geljie, and some other Sherpas reached the summit.” This remarkable achievement was the result of a expedition that was meticulously planned in March and commenced in the first week of May from Lukla.

First climbed in 1954, Cho Oyu’s Nepal side is known for its steep, vertical walls rising thousands of meters, making it one of the greatest present time challenges. The face of the mountain from the Nepal side had not witnessed a successful climb since 2009, despite numerous attempts, highlighting the difficulty involved.

The expedition faced numerous challenges along the way. By May 30, McKenzie and the Sherpa team, including Gelje Sherpa, had fixed ropes up to 7625m but were forced to return to the base camp due to a shortage of ropes. On June 4, with all preparations in place, the team set off on their final summit push from the base camp. The expedition was guided by Seven Summit Treks, a leading Kathmandu-based expedition operator.

The summiteers include:

• Alasdair McKenzie (France) – Completed his 13th 8000er.

• Gelje Sherpa (Nepal)

• Chhangba Sherpa (Nepal)

• Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa (Nepal)

• Lakpa Temba Sherpa (Nepal)

• Lakpa Tenji Sherpa (Nepal)

• Ngima Ongda Sherpa (Nepal)

The team’s dedication and hard work, along with the exceptional logistics and management provided by Seven Summit Treks under the leadership of Mingma Sherpa, were crucial in overcoming the formidable challenges posed by Cho Oyu’s Nepal side. The Sherpas, the team members, the leader, and the climbing strategy deserve commendable praise for this achievement.

A New Era in Nepali Mountaineering

This historic ascent not only marks a significant milestone in the mountaineering world but also opens up new opportunities for climbers from Nepal as well as around the globe aspiring to climb from the Nepalese side. With this success, Cho Oyu is now more accessible from Nepal, heralding a new era in the Nepali mountaineering, and inspiring future expeditions to tackle its challenging routes.